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"I know of no other place more charming and magnificent than
Biarritz" - French author Victor Hugo
Long before millionaires and celebrities booked their holidays
along the French Riviera, they flocked to the small fishing village
of
Biarritz, on the far south-west Atlantic coastline.
Among the European nobility, royalty and artists to frequently
sample the region's therapeutic waters in the 19th century was
Napoleon III's wife, the Spanish-born empress Eugenie, whose former
villa remains the seaside town's most recognisable landmark. Today
it stands as the
seriously classy five-star Hotel du Palais, "regally perched"
beside the main beach.
Post World War II, Biarritz attracted Hollywood's finest such as
Frank Sinatra and Gary Cooper.
While some bawdy 1970-'80s apartments have slightly blighted its
quaint village image, the warm climate and sheltered golden sands of
the croissant-shaped Grand Plage (once known as the Beach of Kings)
continues to attract the well-to-do. Unlike their attention-seeking
peers strutting the Cannes foreshore in their boat shoes and Gucci
shades, they appear more than happy to mingle anonymously on the
beaches with bucket-and-spade-carrying families.
Drawing most attention to the coast in modern times has been the
wave (if you'll pardon the pun) of surfers. Board riders started
arriving on this part of the Basque Coast in the 1950s, chasing the
giant swells that form in the Bay of Biscay from great depressions
in the North Atlantic (and sink the odd ship along the way).
The surfing culture is now well entrenched here and enjoyed year
round. The in-crowd can find the best waves breaking off the beaches
from Hossegor in the north, south down past Anglet, Biarritz and to
the Spanish border as far as the resort town of Hendaye that is just
north of the town famous for its tapas,
San Sebastian - an easy daytrip away.
Each July, Biarritz hosts a major European long board surf
festival, and in September the world's best compete in the Pro
France World championship event staged up and down the coast.
If you don't fancy lugging your board this far, though, it's no
problem, as there are just as many surf shops (such as Quiksilver)
in Biarritz and nearby Bayonne as you'll find lining Manly's Corso
or Cronulla Mall.
You may want to pack a wetsuit, though: a major difference
between the Atlantic coast and the Mediterranean is the water
temperature. It does take a little longer to warm up. We visited in
mid-June and, while outside the temperatures climbed to 30 degrees,
the blue and inviting sea was bracing.
Biarritz's famous stretch of sandy beach can still be a bit
crowded too, and if you visit in August when the French take their
holidays (and the 30,000 population swells to 100,000) there may be
nowhere to spread out a towel (or rest your head if you haven't
booked ahead).
Swimsuits here, like
St Tropez, are also on the skimpy side and nudity has no age (or
size) limits. Even if they resemble a pair of wet socks dangling
from a Hills hoist, breasts tend to pop out here as often as the sun
does.
There are plenty of ways to divert yours and the kids'
unwanted stares (and smirks) - such as
tackling the coast's 10 world-class golf courses, shopping in
the boutiques along the busy, narrow boulevards, visiting the local
chocolate museum and picnicking on crusty ham and cheese baguettes
and multiflavoured (rapidly melting) "glaces" bought from a
streetside cafe or mobile vendor.
An Art Deco pavilion along the beachfront houses a shopping
gallery, indoor pool, bars, bistro and, of course, a casino. From
near here you can also pick up Le Petit Train, which tours the
town's major sites offering visitors commentary in French, English,
Spanish and German.
A short clifftop stroll along the southern end of town is more
highly recommended, particularly at sunset - about 10pm in summer.
Along the marked path to the rocky headland we discovered a
beautiful miniature Notre Dame, the Musee de la Mer (marine museum),
some of the best views of the main beach stretching beyond the hotel
and as far as its other major landmark - the lighthouse - as well as
numerous gorgeous private bays and inlets hidden between giant
eroding rock formations.
Beaches such as the Port de Vieux offer gentler waves where
younger children can bathe safely. At the Port de Pecheurs - a
quaint little fishing harbour tucked in the sea wall - we dined with
the locals on the terrace and enjoyed a delicious paella for two.
Paella? Spain,
just a half-hour drive away, has influenced much of the culture,
cuisine and architecture in this region (especially noticeable in
the border towns such as
St-Jean-de-Luz with its pretty stucco and terracotta-tiled
villas) - which is another reason to visit the other French Riviera.
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