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A city that has survived the test of time.
Beautiful and still mostly unspoiled
 "They
built these walls for two reasons. To keep our enemies out and to
keep our friends in."
Gregor's eyes are bright blue and his skin is deeply tanned. When
he smiles (which he does readily), one gold tooth catches the
morning light that pours down like honey on
Dubrovnik, rightly known as "the Jewel of the Adriatic."
"Once you are inside the walls," he says invitingly, "you are our
friend for life."
He sits dispensing tickets at a tiny table halfway up a steep
flight of stairs that guards the entrance to the ramparts of this
amazing city.
For $3.50 Cdn., you gain access to what is simultaneously a
panoramic view of the Croatian countryside and a many-levelled look
at a city that has survived for 1,500 years. It takes about two
hours to stroll the entire perimeter, but it's a journey you won't
forget.
There are historical records dating Dubrovnik back to the 6th
century, but most of the towers and walls still standing were built
between the 8th and 16th centuries. Although an earthquake and fire
destroyed much of the city in 1667, the walls remained standing.
They circle the city for a total of 1,940 metres and are close to
50 centimetres thick in some places. As you look down, a vista of
terra-cotta coloured roofs greets your eyes, not only a pleasing
visual sight, but a reminder of this place's durability.
During the conflict with Serbia in the early 1990s, many
buildings inside the city walls were severely damaged. Once the war
was over, the citizens rebuilt their homes so that they stand even
prouder than before, although bullet holes and mortar shells serve
as reminders of what happened.
That same troubled period signalled the end of tourism in the
region for nearly a decade, but in the past five years, people have
been eagerly discovering this beautiful and still relatively
unspoiled spot.
Off to the west, you can see the Pile Gate, built in 1537, the
entrance to the old city. No motorized vehicles are allowed past
this gate, although it's hard to see how any of them could manoeuvre
through the twisting alleyways and steep stairwells that honeycomb
the area.
The one exception is the Stradun, the glorious and spacious
marble promenade that runs through the centre of the old town. This
is where local people meet to sit at cafes and pass the time.
It's fascinating to come back here at various times of the day to
see the way the changing colours of the sunlight reflect on the
glossy marble thoroughfare. As one friend suggested, "Spend a whole
day on the Stradun, eat all your meals there and learn what
Dubrovnik is really all about."
It's a relatively small town of 45,000 and the citizens are very
friendly. They haven't had time yet to be jaded by being a major
tourist attraction. Most speak a certain amount of English, although
you may find yourself having to dip into Italian or French to
complete the communications link.
The culinary origins of the city are equally divided between
Italian, Greek and Croatian. There's a plentiful amount of
gelaterias, offering excellent frozen treats for much lower prices
than you'd find in Italy. (A two-scoop cone is less than $1). People
also like to savour their espressos accompanied, of course, by sweet
pastries.
There are also a number of pizzerias, but these tend to be
tourist traps and you'd be well advised to avoid them. Look instead
for the numerous unpretentious taverna-style places that dot the
numerous tiny squares you stumble on. Here's where the Greek
influence is strongest, with perfectly fresh and simply prepared
seafood dominating the menus. The local mussels and oysters have a
unique flavour and it's possible to dine well for under $10. If you
want to sample the high end of Croatian cuisine and don't mind
spending a little more, then try out Proto, in the Old Town, at
Siroka 1, famous for its grilled meats and fish.
Afterwards, seek out the Café Buza, in the south side of the Old
City. Look for a sign that simply says "Cold Drinks" over a hole in
the wall and pass through to a simple place with a spectacular view.
This is where you should try local alcoholic drinks like rakija,
made from grapes, or sljivovica, from plums. Be careful, though;
they pack a considerable punch and the way back is down a steep
path!
In recent years, Dubrovnik has begun to undergo a tourism
renaissance, especially among Europeans. Non-stop British Airways
flights are now available from London. Most North Americans,
however, encounter the city as one of the ports of call on a
Mediterranean cruise. This means you have a limited amount of time
here, but there are certain highlights, other than the city walls,
that you must find time for.
The Franciscan monastery is a richly decorated church that
contains the third-oldest functioning pharmacy in Europe — in
business since 1391.
The Sponza Palace was built in 1516 and is an impressive
combination of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The spacious atrium,
with its boldly arched gallery, is not to be missed.
The synagogue is a beautifully maintained building from the 15th
century. It's is the oldest Sephardic synagogue in Europe and still
the house of worship for Dubrovnik's Jewish community.
If part of the joy of travel is discovery, then Dubrovnik is an
ideal destination. It offers scenic beauty, magnificent historical
architecture, fine local dining and — above all — the sense of a
city that has survived and will continue to do so.
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