 Golden
drifts of sand, like fine-spun silk, ripple towards the sparkling
shore. Goats are herded across arid plains dotted with windmills.
And long-dead volcanoes, scarred and deformed, pierce the cloudless
sky.
Just 50 miles from Saharan Africa, the island of
Fuerteventura has a breathtaking, barren beauty. Despite the
volcanic terrain, it has some of the best beaches in the
Canary Islands - miles and miles of largely deserted sand.
Guaranteed sunshine and negligible rain make it a great year-round
destination, and there is no time difference after the four-hour
flight.
Resort development is restrained, compared with neighbouring
islands, but there is still plenty to keep couples, families and
water sports enthusiasts happy. Corralejo and Caleta de Fuste are
popular with the British, while German tourists favour the southern
resort of Jandia. Visitors from the Spanish mainland swell numbers
in July and August. Although prices are slightly higher than
mainland Spain, a holiday here is still good value.
 The
east coast offers safe swimming, while the wild, west coast is
renowned for its surf breaks. There are sheltered coves in or around
all the main resorts. On more exposed beaches, consistent trade
winds produce world-class windsurfing conditions. If sunbathing
becomes a little too bracing here, it is possible to pitch camp in
the semi-circular, dry-stone wind shelters scattered along the
shore. The island can be toured in a day and the excellent roads
make driving easy. The parched interior is littered with interesting
hamlets.
The resorts
Hotel prices quoted are the lowest, per night, for a double room
until the end of June. Prices can double during July and August. All
hotels have a pool unless otherwise stated. There are also many
apart-hotels and self-catering properties, particularly in the
Corralejo and Caleta de Fuste areas. If telephoning from the UK, add
the prefix 0034.
The North
Corralejo
Lovely beaches and a wide range of hotels and restaurants make
the island's largest resort, Corralejo, popular with British
visitors. The theme pubs and tatty gift shops of the brash main
strip give a misleading first impression. Around the harbour, the
pavement cafes and fish restaurants of the old town draw couples and
families alike. Large groups of exuberant youths are noticeably
absent.
Hotels and apartment complexes straggle east along a series of
sheltered, white-sand bays, hemmed by volcanic outcrops. Calm waters
make this an ideal spot for swimming. Beyond, the Sahara-like dunes
of Corralejo Nature Reserve roll inland and south for more than six
miles. This stunning stretch of coastline - a favourite with kite
surfers - has no amenities and is very exposed. The strange rock
formations and abundant bird life of the tiny isle of Lobos are a
20-minute boat-ride away.
Where to eat
El Tren (928 537093), on the harbour, offers fish and seafood
dishes from £8.40.
For rustic Canarian cuisine, try Tio Bernabé (928 535895). Main
courses from £7.
Exquisitely flavoured meat and fish and a great wine list make
the tiny Bodeguita El Andaluz (676 705878) a popular choice.
Evenings only, no credit cards. Mains from £7.
Yamatori (928 536444), at the Atlantis Bahia Real Grand, is a
stylish teppan-yaki restaurant and sushi bar. Four-course set menus
start at £18.80. Sushi from £3.50 for two pieces.
What to do
Boat trip - Lobos Lobos is a haven for ramblers and birdwatchers:
well-marked trails lead to the summit of an extinct volcano, cacti
flourish in an almost lunar landscape and the cliffs support seabird
colonies. The main beach is a crescent of white sand. There is no
shade, so take a hat, sunscreen and plenty of water. A circuit of
the island takes three hours. Take a picnic, or reserve lunch on
arrival. El Puertito Restaurant, among the fishermen's huts, has
astonishing views across the bay. The two menu options - grilled
white fish or paella - each cost £4.90. The Lobos ferry, El
Majorero, departs Corralejo harbour daily at 10am and noon,
returning at 12.30pm, 4pm and 6pm. Tickets can be bought from the
harbour kiosk. Adults £5.60, children £2.80.
Children's entertainment Baku Water Park (618 308818) has a
dizzying array of flumes, chutes and water-slides. Open daily
10am-5pm; adults £12.50, children £8.40, under-fours free.
Diving
Corralejo has dive sites to suit both novice and master. Expect
to see sea urchins, anemones and plenty of colourful fish among the
volcanic rocks. Dive Center Corralejo (928 535906,
www.divecentercorralejo.com) offers single dives from £29.20
(including kit).
Windsurfing
Ventura Surf (928 866295, www.ventura-surf.com) offers tuition
and equipment hire. An introductory 90-minute lesson costs £31.30.
El Cotillo
This sleepy, west-coast village is an atmospheric place that
remains largely untouched by tourism. A stubby fort guards the
harbour where fishermen tend their nets. Camper vans in the
sun-bleached backstreets hint at the surf beaches to the south. The
main draw is the lagoons - a group of pristine sandy coves just
north of the village - where locals go to sunbathe and swim.
Where to eat
Bar Torino, the simple beach shack at the lagoons, offers toasted
sandwiches (£2.10), salads (£4.20) and the freshest catch of the day
(£7.70). No telephone.
For fish in a more formal setting, try La Marisma (928 538543).
Mains from £7.
The extensive menu at Restaurant Puerto Nuevo (928 538755), near
the harbour, includes seafood, steak and Canarian specials from £7.
La Oliva
This hamlet, 15 minutes inland from Corralejo, was once the
island's capital. Although the grand houses are crumbling, it is
still worth a visit. The 18th-century church has unusual trompe-
l'oeil decoration and Centro de Arte Canario (928 868233; open
10.30am-2pm, Mon-Sat; adults £2.80, under-12s free) houses a
fascinating collection of contemporary painting and sculpture in a
converted house and underground gallery.
The Centre
Caleta de Fuste
This purpose-built resort is a 10-minute drive south of the
airport. Inland, the road climbs through a desolate landscape of
rust-red plains and high mountain ridges to tiny settlements with
whitewashed churches and pockets of palms. Working museums
demonstrate agricultural practices and the island's arts and crafts.
The resort is a great destination for families and golf-lovers -
the Spanish Open was held here in 2004. The man-made beach is
protected from the Atlantic breakers and the shallow waters are
ideal for children. Camel rides and beach volleyball are just two
possible diversions.
Although it lacks the atmosphere of resorts with fishing village
origins, it has excellent facilities. The street behind the beach
has a series of small shopping malls with bars and restaurants.
English is the predominant language here and there are more
family groups than in Corralejo.
Where to eat
Tapas (928 163199) is a no-frills restaurant offering a great
range of local delicacies from £2.10.
Dulce de Leche, next door, is a good place to buy a picnic lunch.
Filled rolls from £1.70; cakes from 40p.
Fado Rock (928 163527) is a Planet Hollywood lookalike that
offers pizza, pasta and steak from £4.90.
Locals travel miles to Los Caracolitos (928 174242), one of the
island's best fish restaurants. Just 10 minutes south of the resort,
it looks out across the pretty cove and salt pans of Salinas del
Carmen. Main courses from £4.90. No credit cards.
What to do
Golf The club office of the Fuerteventura Golf Club (928 160034,
www.fuerteventuragolf.com) is at Hotel Elba Palace Golf. Green fees,
£41; club hire, £12.50; driving range: £2.10 for 50 balls.
Thalassotherapy Balnearia Thalassotherapy Centre (928 160961,
www.spabalnearia.com) has sea-water pools at graded temperatures,
hammam, sauna and steam baths. Open Tuesday-Saturday, 10am-5pm.
Admission £17.
Diving
Deep Blue (606 275468, www.deep-blue-diving.com) This impressive
operation offers single dives from £18.80 (including kit hire). The
Discover Scuba Diving day (£44.50) includes basic theory, a skills
session in the pool and a single ocean dive.
Inland
Tefia
Ecomuseo de la Alcogida (928 175434) Open 9.30am-5.30pm, closed
Mondays and Saturdays. Admission, £2.90; under-12s free. This group
of farm dwellings depicts rural life in charming detail. Camels and
cows graze among the squat little haystacks; a woman threads a
shuttle across a simple loom and in the kitchen, cast-iron pans hang
above a huge range. Traditional ceramics, fine lace and woven palm
goods are produced in the artisan workshops.
Tiscamanita
Windmill Interpretation Centre (928 164275) is open
9.30am-5.30pm; closed Mondays and Saturdays. Admission, £1.30;
under-12s free. Pick a windy day to see the mill in action, grinding
toasted barley to produce gofio, a staple of the island's cuisine.
Displays detailing the history and evolution of the windmill on
Fuerteventura are in Spanish. Ask at reception for the English
guidebook.
Betancuria
This village, another ancient island capital, erupts in a riot of
herbaceous borders against the scorched mountainside. The pretty
church borrows from several architectural traditions and has fine
woodcarvings and a baroque altar. Across the square, Casa Santa
Maria has an excellent restaurant and also sells high-quality
artisan goods. The nearby goat farm produces the island's Majorero
cheese.
Restaurant Casa Santa Maria (928 878282) opens daily 11am-6pm
(noon-7pm in July and August). This rustic restaurant has lovely
views across the valley. It is a great place to try goat and other
local specialities. Mains from £6.30.
El Convento Goat Farm (928 878164) This family-run farm welcomes
visitors at any time. Meet the goats and taste the cheese.
The South
Sotavento
The island's most dazzling beach has a tidal lagoon and stretches
for 13 miles along the south-east coast. The International
Windsurfing Championships are held here in July. Sun worshippers may
prefer the more sheltered charms of Jandia.
Jandia
This pretty resort grew up around the fishing village of Morro
Jable. Sealed roads end here and a four-wheel drive is needed to
explore the wild tip of the Jandia Peninsula.
Jandia beach, a glorious two-mile swathe of white sand, is backed
by a broad promenade. The hotels and bars of the new development
merge with the narrow streets of Morro Jable to the south. A
lighthouse dominates the quiet, north end of the beach. Lifeguards
patrol the sand and there are banks of sun-loungers and several
beach cafes.
Morro
Jable's harbour is a busy working port and separate from the
tourist area. Although the old town has character, it seems rather
worn. The resort is very popular with German tourists and there are
more couples here than families.
Where to eat
Don Pedro (928 540045) has delicious seafood from £8.40.
For pizza and pasta, try Piccola Italia (928 541258) in Morro
Jable. Mains from £4.20.
Cafeteria y Bocateria Gina (928 540476) is a great place for
coffee and cake (£2) or a sandwich (from £2.10).
What to do
Subcat (928 166392, www.subcat-fuerteventura.com) Experience the
underwater world without getting wet. The Subcat submarine dives to
30 metres. Daily departures at 9am, 10.45am, 12.45pm and 2.30pm.
Adults, £37.60; 2-12 years, £20.90.
Magic Catamaran (900 506260) A half-day's sail with lunch costs
£40.40 (children half-price).
Windsurfing
Pro Centre René Egli (928 547483, www.rene-egli.com) Sotavento is
the best windsurfing location on the island. The waist-deep tidal
lagoon is perfect for beginners, while more experienced
practitioners can take to the open water. A 2½-hour introductory
course costs £34.80 (including kit).
When to go
The island has a spring-summer climate. Average temperatures
range from 21C in January and February to 29C in July and August.
There are two high seasons: December to March and July-August.
Accommodation prices are lowest in May and June. The sea temperature
averages 18-22C.
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Castillo
de Elba Aparthotel Fuerteventura
