Morocco's Magic - Get Romantic in Marrakech

A unique rugged metropolis, set to the daily soundtrack of five calls to prayer from microphones in skyward-reaching minarets, Marrakech is inhabited by extraordinarily open-hearted people. Take our friendly guide in Marrakech, for example, who taught me the traditional Arabic greeting and practiced it with me until I had it memorized: Assalaam aleikum (peace to you) and Waaleikum salaam (and to you peace). As each part of the greeting is uttered, a hand is traditionally placed over the heart. Every time I witnessed this exchange on Marrakech's streets, I felt truly moved, especially in light of my comparatively callous American routine of "Hey, what's up? Nothing, you?"

In one of our recent e-mail correspondences, I asked Mustapha what he'd tell would-be visitors. "The kingdom of Morocco is a wonderful one," he writes. "The people are very welcoming. The country is rich in history, geography, and sights. Most people who have visited come back again and again. Everything is magic in Marrakech. And whatever your religion is, this country is your second country."

Because Marrakech has been a trading center for decades -- and is an increasingly popular tourist destination -- the influences of both East and West are palpable. I often saw a traditionally veiled older woman walking arm-and-arm with her jeans-clad teenage daughter. (Western women don't need to wear a veil in Marrakech, but both men and women should keep their arms and legs covered as much as possible.) As a female American tourist, I never felt uncomfortable or out of place. Nor, it seems, do other visitors; tourists are rediscovering Morocco in record numbers. After agriculture, tourism is now the nation's second largest industry.

In the first half of 2004, 3.16 million tourists visited the country, and, according to the Moroccan government, foreign tourist arrivals increased by 19% in the first half of 2005. But these numbers are largely French, Spanish, German, and British. (I didn't meet another U.S. traveler during the time I spent in the country.) The Moroccan tourist industry hopes to accommodate some ten million tourists by 2010, and that means the monarchy -- ruled by Mohammed VI, who ascended the thrown in 1999 -- is encouraging economic development, official training for tourism guides, and rising numbers of comfortable accommodations with Western-style amenities. As a travel destination, Morocco has it all. "My favorite thing about Morocco," Mustapha told me, "is that it has the Atlantic Ocean, the Mediterranean, the mountains, and the desert."

Exploring Marrakech

After a day with Mustapha, spend some time exploring on your own. To my mind, the streets themselves are the city's best attraction; just wandering around, even getting lost, exposes you to the sights, smells, colors, and essence of Moroccan daily life. Along the way, be sure not to miss the Bahia Palace, Djemaa el Fna (a daily stage for entertainment, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site), the souks, the Musee Marrakech, the Ben Youssef Medersa, the Villa Nouvelle, and at least one of the city's stunning gardens.

A shopping hint: Browsing in the souks and talking with local shopkeepers is a worthwhile activity that can hold your attention for more than one afternoon. But if you plan to take home souvenirs, do some initial research at Ensemble Artisans, on Muhammed V Avenue. Here, all prices are officially set at fixed rates by the government, which means there's no bargaining. The costs are good benchmarks to keep in mind when you do bargain at the souks. Something else to remember: If you enter into a conversation with a shopkeeper in a souk, it's often customary for he or she to offer you mint tea. If you're truly not interested in purchasing anything, decline the tea politely and try not to loiter too long. If you stick around, you'll begin to feel intense pressure to buy and it's hard to escape without at least one trinket. Once you do express genuine interest in something, let the bargaining begin. It's fair to counter the shopkeeper's original offer by at least 50% or 60% and go back and forth two or three times. You can always walk out if you don't like the final price, but my rule of thumb was that if I really liked something and liked the person selling it, I was willing to pay a few extra bucks for the experience.

The only exception to this rule is carpets: If you plan to buy traditional carpets, do your research on type, quality, and value before you arrive. You'll want to be educated about the wide variety of rugs unrolled before you, so you'll know what's a fair price for what.

Outside of the government shops, haggling in Marrakech is part of the fun; just keep a cheerful spirit and you'll earn the shopkeeper's respect. Babouches (slippers), silk scarves, handmade leather bags and poufs (footstools/ottomans; visit Authentic Morocco www.authenticmorocco.com/moroccan_pouf_morocco.html for photos), and jellebas (traditional robes) are unique, handsomely crafted, and relatively inexpensive souvenirs for friends and family back home. Babouches shouldn't cost more than $10 per pair; scarves shouldn't cost more than $20; and poufs shouldn't cost much more than $30 or $40.

During the day, you can walk anywhere within the city walls. But if you're heading out for dinner after dark, or maybe for a day-time excursion outside the medina -- to the Villa Nouveau or the Palmerie on the city's outskirts -- consider taking a taxi. During the day, it's easy enough to hail a petite taxi (often shared with other passengers), but, at night, ask someone at your riad or the restaurant where you're eating to call and make arrangements.

Where to Dine in Marrakech

"Say couscous!" If you're like me, you'll laugh, but you'll begin repeating this phrase in lieu of "say cheese" each time a local bystander snaps your photo. And you'll get used to the phrase when dining, too. If you want to savor traditional Moroccan cuisine -- but don't have an invitation to someone's home, and have too weak a Western belly for the food stalls -- prepare yourself for set menus at restaurants. These meals typically start off with a plethora of salads served on small plates, followed by tajines (casseroles cooked in ceramic bowls; the term actually refers to the cookware, which is covered with conical lids; to see examples, go to www.tagines.com), and couscous. The cuisine is mouth-wateringly good, but after several days, you might want to try a riad like Villa des Orangers or Dar Les Cigognes for dishes that attempt a fusion of European and Moroccan flavors.

After a morning of exploring Djemma el Fna and the souks, you'll work up an appetite. For a traditional (if somewhat overpriced) Moroccan lunch set in a refreshingly tranquil garden, just off of the bustling square, try Restaurant Al Baraka (1, Place Jamaa El Fna; tel. 212/44-44-23-41; www.albaraka.com; set menus ranging from 300–400 dirhams). You can dine inside or out, and the enormous quantity of food you're presented with is all scrumptious. Save room for the mint tea and pastries that follow your main course. You can find plenty of other cafes and restaurants overlooking Djemma el Fna, but we enjoyed Al Baraka's kind service, calming setting, and home-style Moroccan cuisine. The only negative is that this place caters to tourists and wealthy Moroccans; we saw very few locals dining here. (In fact, I didn't see many locals, particularly local women, eating out anywhere. The male-dominated cafes are popular spots for mint tea, but as a woman, I rarely felt comfortable entering one of these establishments.)

For a romantic dinner, with plenty of laugh-out-loud fun, don't miss Dar Marjana (15 Derb Sidi Tair, off Rue Bab Doukkala; tel. 044-38-51-10; set menu 605 dirhams; daily except Tuesday from 8pm; reservations required). This worthwhile splurge offers excellent cuisine, live Moroccan music, and a belly dancer that gyrated with me and my boyfriend. I've never laughed as hard as when I tried to emulate her impressive hip shaking. And in between our many courses, our always-smiling charismatic waiter gave us Arabic lessons. "Shukran" (Arabic for thank you), he reminded me each time I said merci.

Upon arrival at the magnificent early 19th-century palace, we were seated in the majestic courtyard and served a drink, olives, and popcorn. After a half-hour or so, we were escorted into the dining room, where our table was decorated with the outline of a heart, fashioned out of fresh red rose petals, with our initials spelled out inside in red sequins. Everything -- from the plethora of salads to the tajines and couscous to the flaky pastries and mint tea -- is delicious, and the English-speaking owners are delightful. (Wine is included in the price of the set menu.)

For a more intimate and reserved romantic night out, try Le Tobsil (22, Derb Abdellah Ben Hessaïen, R'mila Bab Ksour; tel. 212/0-44-44-40-52 or 212/0-44-44-45-35; e-mail: restobsil@yahoo.fr; 550 dirhams; reservations recommended). This restaurant is considered to be one of Marrakech's finest, and you won't be disappointed by the set menu or the ambiance, but I found the service warmer and more entertaining at Dar Marjana. You'll hear live music here, too, but the musicians only come by your table for a brief period; mostly, you'll be left alone to enjoy your traditional cuisine and unlimited wine. If you want a quiet evening with a variety of well prepared dishes, Le Tobsil's the place to go.

Nightlife

Bars and clubs are emerging destinations for tourists, ex pats, and some young Marrakech residents, but the stimulating Djemma el Fna is where you'll find the largest number of locals out after dark, enjoying inexpensive food stalls and nightly entertainment.