 The
spectacular sight of cliffs, crowned with acres of green
Mediterranean flora, silently surround the Levante Riviera town of
Portofino with a mystical peacefulness. It deepens as more of
this ancient marina and modern-day tourist attractions come into
view.
Entering from the silvery Tigullian Gulf, Portofino, is framed by
rocky crags dotted with cypress and olive trees and rows of clay
Mediterranean-style homes. As many as seven narrow homes attach,
barely yards away from the cliffs' edges. Others are built into the
rock, so architecturally sound they look as if they were created by
nature. Each vertical unit is characterized by its roof's pitch, the
vibrant colors on doors and shutters and the diverse arrangements in
blossoming window boxes. The gentle movement of water ripples and
brush moved by the breeze is the only indication that the view is
real and not a Master's painting.
Portofino is a promontory along the Ligurian Coast in
Northwestern Italy that attracts 200,000 visitors from all over the
world each year, making it the most popular tourist stop in
Liguria, according to the Italian Government Tourist Board in
New York City. It is as steeped in history as it is in mythology.
Human occupancy can be traced back to the bronze age in the 14th
century. Local lore states the Romans dubbed it Porto Delphini in
honor of the many dolphins that swam the gulf. It became a tourist
attraction - albeit not an overcrowded one - in the 1950s, when such
jetsetters such as Princess Grace and Elizabeth Taylor vacationed
there to forget about life for a while.
The future of Portofino is promising, thanks to strict local and
global conservation efforts, in effect since 1935. Even the streets
and sidewalks in the main square by the water's edge show no
evidence of debris. Unlike other parts of Italy, where soda bottles,
snack wrappers and other garbage line the gutter, Portofino bears no
sign of litter. This pride is carried over to the buildings, hotels,
shops and restaurants - all of which are spotless and meticulously
maintained.
This seaport boasts every vessel from working fishing boats,
luxury private yachts, cruise ships (Portofino is a popular
excursion along luxury cruise lines) and water taxis whose captains
shout out competitive fares to nearby Santa Margherita, another
spotless coastal gem 15 minutes away and well worth the 10 euros or
approximately $12.25 United States Dollars.
Shopping is another attraction. Designer stores line the harbor
displaying the latest in children's wear, ladies handbags, jewelry,
shoes and other leather goods, to up-to-the-minute men's and women's
couture. A few merchants even offer the cheesy souvenirs of
postcards and Portofino key chains. Kiosks offer a wide variety of
table linens, baby bibs and other memorabilia.
The sea is so clear; you can watch small fish dart about the
anchors as you dine at one of the many harbor side restaurants. The
village is spotted with an abundance of outdoor cafes that offer a
standard selection of wines, coffees, cappuccino, pasta, sandwiches
and other entrees. The seafood is so fresh, you may wonder if the
fishing line has yet been detached. (Don't worry, everything's been
expertly filleted.)
Some hot water spots include Trattoria Tripoli and Da Puny, where
Chez Puny can be seen preparing the lasagna and pesto. But expect
the breathtaking views to be better than the food, which is about
average and not commensurate with its high prices. Two scoops of ice
cream at one seaside venue cost $17 American dollars. A tumbler of
Coca-Cola cost more than $5.
If you are going to spend the money anyway, your best dining
option is to make a reservation at the Hotel Splendido, 16 Viale
Baratta, Portofino. This former monastery, dating back to the
sixteenth century, is situated in the contours of the hills
overlooking the sea from every side. A van transports guests every
half hour from the pharmacy outside the square. A tip of five euros
per couple each way is welcome. Walking the windy, narrow path to
this glorious, aptly-named, five-star retreat is also possible.
On a gorgeous day, and thanks to typical Mediterranean weather,
which boasts twelve months of summer, every day in Portofino is
gorgeous, enjoy antipasto, a selection of fine cheeses, a filet of
veal and wine in La Terrazza. Plump ripe lemons hang from potted
trees alongside the stone building. Greenery and bursts of fuchsia,
purple, white and orange flowers grace this paradise that boasts the
most spectacular view of the Mediterranean Sea.
Forest green crags provide a soothing contrast to the aqua water
and cloudless azure sky. Keep the tranquility a little longer by
booking a room. Again the prices are high (not so high with our
Last Minute Hotels Portofino),
but include unmatched elegance, antique-filled rooms, exceptional
service, and access to a private stretch of beach, buffet American
breakfasts and one ala-carte meal. Prime season runs June through
September. A standard double room without a view costs about 982
euro a night or $1,204.80 USD and the Presidential two-bedroom suite
with balcony overlooking the sea costs 4,530 euro a night or
$5,558.56 USD.
Who says Portofino only caters to the wealthy? A splendid dining
experience can be had upon a picnic blanket along the many trails
that lead to this precious port. Portofino open space is as
enchanting as its water views. It is home to more than 700 protected
plant species, such as Saxifraga cochlearis, a species of Alpi
Marittime. Chestnut trees, Mediterranean pines and the African
ampelopsis bordering Liguria, frame Portofino. Several varities of
ferns grow along the forests and rocky cliffs.
The plant life is vital to the wide variety of birds, including
the turtle dove and the Sardinian warbler, and invertebrates, such
as the soon-to-be-rare two-tailed Pasha. Its seafloor is a
biocenosis of fish and plant species, including coral beds in
authentic habitats. The Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino always
welcomes hikers, birders and just interested visitors.
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