 Could
the little village of Pacet in the hills outside
Surabaya become the eco-tourism center of East Java? It
certainly has the credentials: Dense forests, steep slopes,
spectacular waterfalls and fertile valleys; history for the finding;
culture for the curious.
But first these assets have to be spruced up, made safe, properly
packaged and sold to cautious locals and nervous visitors.
This is the self-imposed task set by environmentalist Suryo
Prawiroatmodjo. A former Surabaya Zoo veterinary surgeon turned
Greenie, Suryo lives in Pacet, a 90-minute drive from the East Java
capital.
He knows of the district's potential, being the founder of
Seloliman, the internationally famous environmental education center
on the slopes of nearby Mt. Penanggungan.
This is the sacred mountain of the 14th Century Majapahit
Kingdom, and is literally littered with the remnants of pre-Islamic
Java. Archeological surveys have found more than 100 sites, though
not all are being preserved.
"Before the first Bali bombing on Oct. 12, 2002, European,
American and Australian backpackers often included Pacet on their
itineraries," said Suryo.
"I've accompanied many foreigners on nature tours and I know what
they want. They're seeking a clean and unspoiled environment and a
positive experience, preferably unique. They want to interact with
ordinary people and learn about their lives."
In some villages Dewi Sri, the goddess of rice, is still
recognized with ceremonies held to ensure a bountiful crop.
Attending such rare and unusual events could be a major attraction
to the travel-weary, fed up with the commonplace and predictable.
These unpublicized celebrations are the real thing, not cut-down
versions stage-managed for tourists.
The soil is so fertile in Pacet that rice farmers can get three
harvests a year. This means that in many locations, the visitor can
see rice being planted in one field, fertilized in another and
harvested in a third.
Other attractions are the nearby village of Trowulan, once the
capital of the 13th Century Majapahit Kingdom, now a center of many
archeological sites. There's a good museum and most locations are
easily accessible by becak, or pedicab.
But where could groups of visitors stay? There are plenty of
hotels in nearby Tretes, a well-known red light district. But these
are for local trade and packed most weekends with escapees from the
smog of Surabaya.
Listening to paunchy businessmen croaking the tycoon's anthem I
Did It My Way is not a recommended Saturday night experience for the
sensitive.
A year ago, Suryo was negotiating with the beautifully located
Grand Trawas Hotel to sell the district to ecotourists. Although the
management was more interested in promoting clear air and birdsong
than karaoke, the discussions led nowhere.
Now he's talking to the Sativa Hotel, owned by the Wismilak
tobacco company. This offers cottage accommodation in herb gardens
with Majapahit-era statuary, and is more like an Ubud resort than an
East Java hedonistic high-rise.
Pacet is well located for travelers exploring Java. It's also
ideal for Europeans heading for
Australia and
working their way south through
Indonesia,
stopping in
Jakarta,
Yogyakarta and
Bali -- just add one more stop between the last two
destinations.
Unlike Bali, East Java doesn't have the infrastructure to cope
with overseas visitors. Drive-yourself rental cars and organized
tours are rare. Getting to Pacet by public transport means hiring a
car and driver, or using buses, mini vans and ojek -- motorcycle
taxis.
These are fine for the adventurous. Others might think that
swinging through potholed roads following the crumbling contours
minus helmet could test the fine print in their travel insurance.
And organized tour groups -- to the local market, most likely --
usually want all comforts provided.
Some walking trails have been mapped and graded for ease, but
many require safety rails in key locations and slippery slopes
resurfaced.
One of Suryo's favorite views is into a valley where ancient
trees, long dead, still stand supported by wild figs. Birds
transported the fig seeds to the giants' upper branches. The figs
grew vigorously, sending vines down to the forest floor, creating a
scaffolding strong enough to support their decaying host.
The thickly timbered valleys have been saved from the machete and
chain saw because they're legally protected. More importantly,
they're believed to be the home of forest spirits. Disturbance could
arouse wrath. Tree-clad slopes seldom suffer landslides.
Don't laugh at the old myths -- they're as effective as modern
conservation practices backed by legislation.
Suryo and his colleagues in the environment movement are now
organizing meetings with local community leaders to get their
support.
A decade ago, the sight of blondes in khaki shorts and rugged
rucksacks wandering through villages and chatting to the locals
excited no alarm. However, the economic crisis, the loss of East
Timor and terrorist attacks have ratcheted up suspicion.
Occasionally, authorities unfamiliar with past tourism think that
groups of Westerners straying beyond their hotel pools may be up to
no good. So the project has to be explained in detail.
The other concern is raising expectations too high. When
foreigners were a regular sight, the economy was boosted by sales of
food and handicrafts. Those who remember the mini boom would expect
its rapid return.
"It's going to take time to get visitors back," Suryo admitted.
"Travel warnings aren't helping. There won't be any great rush. In
the meantime, we're bringing classes from schools in Surabaya here
so they can learn more about nature."
"One idea being canvassed is for a supplementary charge to be
included in any group tour cost to help maintain the environment,
just as national parks impose entry fees," he said. "This income
would have to be directed to a charitable organization to ensure
that all locals benefit."
In the meantime, anyone who's familiar with Indonesia, likes
walking and who doesn't mind roughing it a little should have no
problems negotiating their way around Pacet.
Wear strong boots and a hat. The locals are keen to help and
local transport is available for hire.
The extent of the work required was obvious when Suryo took a
group around the lookouts and forests. Facilities are few and
rubbish disposal is still a problem.
But Suryo is no stranger to such a tough task. As a member of the
Green Indonesia Foundation, he was promoting conservation in the
dark days of Suharto when earth-keepers were considered to be the
kin of communists.
Suryo convinced the government that ecological issues were
important and got the required permits. International awards
followed for his persistence and success. Then came money from the
World Wildlife Fund to build centers in Bali, South Sulawesi and
elsewhere.
Today, his opponents are disquiet and distrust.
East Java is certainly all the wonderful things thus mentioned,
but the novice overseas visitor's first and last question is, sadly:
But is it safe?
Suryo and his friends are determined that the answer will remain
"Yes", and the greatest danger will be slipping off a moss-covered
rock while negotiating a stream.
If you're allergic to crowds and want the place to yourself, get
in early.
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