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Memoirs of a Geisha -- both the Arthur Golden novel and the
film version of it -- depicts the Gion of yesteryear, but contemporary
Kyoto
remains a city lush with sensual experiences for even the most hurried of
travelers. Take a walk through these picturesque streets, and you can
experience the sights, sounds and sensations of Geisha's "floating world."
 No "Memoirs of a Geisha" scene is more memorable than when Sayuri and her
lover meet briefly beneath the falling petals of a Yoshino cherry tree --
and cherry blossom viewing remains a stunning glimpse into the heart of
Japan. Visit in springtime -- mid-March through early April -- and if you
time it right you'll see families, friends, lovers and groups of co-workers
laughing and drinking under the pink-petaled boughs; some even bring a
not-so-traditional karaoke machine to add to the ambience. The boughs of
Kyoto's Japanese maple trees are gorgeous all year round; the tree-lined
walkways around the famous Kiyomizudera temple (on the outskirts of the
city) offer especially picturesque vistas of the city below.
Don't be afraid to step off Gion's Shimo-dori to discover something on
your own. This centuries-old neighborhood still offers atmospheric
wooden-slatted windows, narrow alleyways, delicate paper screens and bamboo
fences. Withered grandfathers manicure impeccable gardens; children run on
cobblestones; cats slink across the pavement like feline ghosts. A few
minutes' stroll will make you marvel at the beauty of this fascinating
world.
Breathe deeply, and you'll smell incense wafting from temple offerings,
smells of cedar and pine and musk mixing with the amber evening light.
Kungyoku-do, the most famous of Old Kyoto's incense shops (right across from
Nishi-Hongan-ji temple), sells a variety of traditional wari-byakudan and
wari-jinko: small sticks of fragrant wood that burn with a delightful smell.
Take a few home with you to remind you of the journey. Or leave one to
smolder in a temple urn and make your wish come true.
Sample the traditional taste of yu-doufu: creamy, soft pieces of boiled
tofu dipped in a savory ponzu-like broth. Te-uchi soba, handmade buckwheat
noodles served steaming hot or refreshingly cold, are another Kyoto-area
specialty. It's often possible to watch the master of the house making the
day's soba himself in the shop's window. Seated at a tatami mat, with
waitresses in yukata pouring tea, you can imagine geisha arriving to
entertain a patron with games, conversation and an elusive smile.
As evening turns to night, wander Gion and keep your eyes peeled: The
sight of a maiko (apprentice geisha) hurrying to her next appointment has
not changed; done up in her kimono like a brilliant butterfly, she seems to be floating as she slips across the street. It's
fine to take a picture, but you may have to content yourself with an action
shot, as these women rarely have time to strike a pose.
Geisha are master singers and dancers, but they are also
able to discuss high-level politics or play hard drinking games with equal
ease.
Pause to savor the senses of Gion. Listen to the tinkle of fuurin wind
chimes, the rich gurgle of the Kamo River as it rushes beneath a gently
curved bridge. Inhale the clean, crisp air and the smell of cedar smoke. Run
your fingers along the ridges of rain-weathered cedar; touch rain-soaked
moss in a temple garden. Feel the weight of an obi (the colorful cloth sash
used to tie a kimono) or the softness of a silk kimono. The Kyoto of today
may be different from 60 years ago, but the city still evokes -- at every
turn -- the beautiful Floating World it was half a century before.
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