 Unlike
Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh and most other Vietnamese cities, HUÉ somehow seems to
have stood aside from the current economic frenzy and, despite its
calamitous history, has retained a unique cultural identity. It's a small,
peaceful city, full of lakes, canals and lush vegetation and some
magnificent historical sights - including the nineteenth-century walled
citadel the remnants of its once-magnificent Imperial City and seven
palatial Royal Mausoleums. With all this to offer, Hué is inevitably one of
Vietnam's pre-eminent tourist destinations. It's also the main jumping-off
point for day-tours of the DMZ .
In 1802, Emperor Gia Long, founder of the Nguyen dynasty , moved the
capital from Hanoi and built his Imperial City in Hué. From then on, the
Nguyen dynasty ruled Vietnam from Hué until the abdication of Emperor Bao
Dai in 1945, though the French seized the city in 1885, leaving them as
nominal rulers only. During the 1968 Tet Offensive the North Vietnamese Army
(NVA) held the city for 25 days, and in the ensuing counter-assault the city
was all but levelled. Seven years later, on March 26, 1975, the NVA were
back to liberate Hué, the first big town south of the Seventeenth Parallel.
The huge task of rebuilding received a boost in 1993 when UNESCO listed Hué
as a World Heritage Site.
Flights into Hué's Phu Bai Airport , 15km southeast of the city, are met
by an airport bus (less than $1) which goes to central hotels, and by
metered taxis ($7). When it comes to moving on, the airport bus leaves from
the MASCO office at 12 Ha Noi (tel 054/825640), or arrange a pick-up from
your hotel reception. Vietnam Airlines is in the Thuan Hoa Hotel at 7 Nguyen
Tri Phuong (7-11am & 2-5pm). The train station lies about 1500m from the
centre of town at the far western end of Le Loi, a boulevard running along
the south bank of the Perfume River. Note that trains out of Hué get quickly
booked up, so make onward travel arrangements as early as possible (ticket
office open daily 7.30-11am & 1.30-4pm). Hué has two long-distance bus
stations : services from the south pull into An Cuu station, 1km southeast
of the centre, while buses from Hanoi and the north dump you at An Hoa
station, 4km northwest on Highway 1: cyclos are on hand to take you into the
centre. Bicycles (less than $1), motorbikes ($5-10) and cars ($20-30) can be
rented from hotels, guesthouses and cafés. These will also help arrange
onward transport by tourist minibus or hired car to Hoi An, Da Nang and
Hanoi. The Mandarin Café (tel 054/82128112), 12 Hung Vuong, is home to the
Sinh Café's open-tour booking desk.
The most famous Hué dish is banh khoai, a small, crispy yellow pancake,
fried up with shrimp, pork and bean sprouts, and served with peanut and
sesame sauce, starfruit, green banana, lettuce and mint; try it at Ban Khoai
Hanh at 2 Nguyen Tri Phuong. Hué's two nightspots are the Apocalypse Now bar
(a less sleazy sister establishment to the Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh branches)
and the DMZ Bar at 7 Nguyen Tri Phuong and 44 Le Loi respectively. Both are
open late and are popular with travellers for beers, pool and dancing. |
