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Visiting Vietnam

My Son lures visitors with historic window to the past

One of the most attractive destinations in Vietnam is the World Cultural Heritage Site of My Son. The site is located in a secluded valley in Duy Xuyen district in the central coastal province of Quang Nam, about 70km southwest of Da Nang city.

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Visitors sense the attraction of My Son and come not only to visit a World Heritage Site, but also to return to the past to admire beauty created hundreds of years ago. The journey starts at the cathedral of Tra Kieu, 10km outside My Son, where visitors can conjure up the ancient kingdom of Sibapura in their imagination. The road to the historical relic site has been upgraded and after traversing a bamboo suspension bridge across the canal, visitors board a Zeep to travel a further 2km in the rolling hills and mountains before reaching My Son.

My Son features vestiges of Buddhism from the former Cham Kingdom and steles dating back to the fourth century announce that King Bhadresvara built a temple to worship the deity of Shiva. But 200 years later, this first wooden temple was destroyed in a devastating fire. In the 17th century, another king, called Sambhuvarman, rebuilt the temple using more durable materials and that temple still exists. Successive kings continuously erected brick temples using mysterious construction techniques where they made offering to deities. The site contains more than 70 architectural pieces made of bricks and stones, dating back to the seventh to 13th centuries, My Son was the most important architectural centre of the former Cham Kingdom.

As visitors come closer to the relic complex to view the ancient mossy Cham towers, they see each one is covered in statues of elephants, horses, dancing women and deities. Many of the major temples were used to worship a set of Linga or phallus statues of Shiva, the protector of Cham kings. Another deity honored in My Son is Bahadresvara, the creator of the first clan of kings who reigned over the Amaravati region at the end of the fourth century. Bahadresvara combined with Shiva to become the main deity and belief system, which also worshiped kings, ancestors and royal families. My Son is attractive because it demonstrates the interesting historical truth that everything on earth can be ruined, but human dreams and creativeness will exist forever.

In My Son, about 32 relics remain intact, many of them still under restoration. But visitors are always left with great impressions about the dreams and creativeness of those who built this wonderful site.

Nguyen Duy Thanh brought his family from the northern province of Ha Tay to My Son. "The scenery in My Son is spectacular," he said. "We now know about this ancient culture through the relics here, but the type materials used to help build the towers is still not known. We had a satisfactory visit to My Son with helpful assistance from local guides."

Apart from myths and historical stories, visitors also learn about who restored My Son after hundreds of years of neglect. Scholars from France and Poland and Tran Ky Phuong, a My Son researcher from Vietnam were behind the restoration efforts.

Spending a day in My Son, visitors will feel as if they are standing in front of a huge mirror reflecting history and arts. Since My Son was recognised as a World Cultural Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1999, there has been an increasing number of foreign and domestic tourists. In addition to improving tour services, Quang Nam province plans to conserve and develop the value of the site.

Dinh Hai, director of the Provincial Department for Tourism, said: "Based on the master plan, we have devised detailed plans for scientific research and restoration activities."

"We are also involved in projects drawn up between the governments of Vietnam and Italy and UNESCO to upgrade tower D, draw up a master plan for My Son and build the My Son-Thac Ba ecological and cultural area," Mr Hai said. "In addition, we have strengthened investment in infrastructure including roads, electricity and water and environment. Open incentive policies have been adopted to attract more investment in tourism sites."

My Son is a historical and architectural treasure, not just for Vietnam but for all the people of the world.

 

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