Adventure

A day covering the best of ancient Carthage (map overleaf) followed by an evening in the cliff-top village of Sidi Bou Said.

The focal point of Sousse is the walled medina that rises behind the coastal strip. Whatever delights the hotels and beach-clubs devise, it is to the medina that people naturally gravitate when the sun and sand begin to pall.

In the tourist centres, souvenirs have edged out quality Tunisian crafts. Some of the items on sale – bags, jackets and brassware – are even imported from abroad, witness the Friday ‘camel’ market at Nabeul on Cap Bon.

A day exploring Cap Bon: hot springs, fine beaches, a fish lunch and the Punic site of Kerkouane. A car is essential for this trip. Although designed as a day’s outing from Tunis, this circular tour is also a good option for anyone based in Hammamet. It includes several specific attractions, but much of the appeal of Cap Bon lies in the quiet, rural scenery and gentle flow of life.

Slacked into a spur of the Jebel Dyr, El Kef (the rock) enjoys a commanding location, which along with its status as the capital of the northern border region raises it above other towns of the Tell. It has an ancient history, first entering chronicles as the Carthaginian town of Sicca.

Take the main road to Monastir rather than the coast road, which save for the zone touristique (hotel strip) is depressingly ugly. Signposts lead you into town, delivering you at the old city walls. Circumvent the walls (keeping them on your left). At a gold statue of Habib Bourguiba, Monastir’s most famous son, turn left and proceed towards the domes and minarets of the Bourguiba family mausoleum – still waiting for its chief occupant. Take the second right past the ONAT shop and park.